Friday, March 20, 2009

Holy Mole

Elephants, baboons, and wart hogs, Oh My!

Traveling for literally 30 hours a group of us- Loren, Bethany, Johnny, and I-headed to Mole (pronounced Mo-lay) National Park in the Northern Region of Ghana this weekend.

Now in the U.S. I would estimate this trip to take about 6 or 7 hours, but that's Ghana's Public Transportation system for ya.

We never realized how many people would be wanting to take the 7am bus on a Saturday morning to Tamale (pronounced Tom-a-lay, not like the Mexican food!). We arrive at the bus station, only to find out that both the 7 and 8 am buses are full. Not to worry. We pull out our trusty guide book and look for Plan B. By the end of the trip, we said we were probably through the entire alphabet and on Plan CC.

We went to the nearby tro tro station and found a bus to Kumasi. From there we would head to Tamale, and then finally to Mole National Park. But don't think it was that simple... Traveling in Ghana is not traveling without a few obstacles!

When we get to Kumasi we go to two different bus stations. Both buses to Tamale are full. Thankfully our third option is a success. (Seriously though, Tamale must have more in it than I think. It's a hot spot! Haha.)

We arrive in Tamale at about 10 at night. We need to be at the bus station by four in the morning for the 6 am bus. The guidebook tells us that you cannot buy tickets in advance, so we want to make sure we are there early in order to get a seat.

After checking a few hotels, Loren and I convince the others that at this point, we might as well just sleep at the bus station. We only had about 4 hours until we had to be there...
With a little persuasion they gave in. And the bus station was the place to be! There were lots of people there- sleeping, playing games, eating and selling food -waiting for an early bus.

We figured it couldn't be that bad. I mean, I've done it before, and this time I was prepared! I brought my own sheet to lay on! We found a spot by a group of Ghanaian women and their kids. They seemed surprised that we were going to stay there, Haha and took us under their wing. They told us to keep our bags zipped and close to us. All the important info obrunis need to know!

The next morning we woke up to get in line to get a ticket... but clearly people already had tickets. I don't know how Ghanaians always find out this important information that we just seem to miss! Apparently you could buy advance tickets, and you were suppose to. So again. We were without a ticket. We didn't want to miss the bus, so the driver said we could get on if we were prepared to stand... on a bumpy road... for 5 hours.

After weighing our options, we all agreed we would stand. But thankfully we didn't have to. We took a different means of transportation!

There was a tro tro heading in that direction that we could get on instead. It didn't take long to fill up because so many people didn't have a ticket. Finally we were on the last stretch to Mole National Park.

Mole National Park

We spent the first day relaxing by the pool, which was so refreshing after traveling for so long. It was cool because we could look out into the grassy area on the other side of the pool and we saw a group of elephants from a distance. I figured it would be no problem seeing elephants on the walking safari we were going to take the next morning...

That night we ate dinner at the Staff Canteen there on the site. It had really good and cheap Ghanaian food.

It was interesting because an older Ghanaian woman-Auntie Janet-we met on the tro tro to the park worked there. She took our orders during the day and then went back to her house to prepare the food for our dinner. We told her what time we wanted to eat and she met us back at the park with the food. Can you imagine this kind of restaurant service in the United States? LOL

As we ate ground nut soup and rice balls with our hands, Auntie Janet sat with us and sang The Lion King Song- "In the Jungle, the Mighty Jungle"... you know that one! And of course we sang along!

The next night we had a full sing along with Auntie Janet, singing Kumbayah, the Barney Song: I Love You, You Love Me, The Hokey Pokey, Father Abraham, and Head, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes. LOL! Definitely a good time! It brought me back to my child hood days and all the songs we use to sing!

Safari Time

Monday morning we went on the 7 am safari. We saw baboons and monkeys in trees, wart hogs, cobb, and bush back (antelope and deer like animals), but no elephants. I was really surprised since they were so close yesterday.

Our trusty guide, DK, said that they probably got a big drink from the watering hole the day before and had dispersed far back into the forest.



When wart hogs eat they bend on their two front knees. Someone asked why they do that and DK explained that they were giving respect to their food by doing this! Haha! This was his answer, and his only answer. No further explanation needed! LOL That was simply the reason.

Determined to see elephants up close, we went on the 3:30 safari that day. DK was again our guide and before we left, he informed us that he, "Prayed more hard" that we will find elephants. So presh! Of course, he prayed more hard!

But no luck.

However, even though the elephants were no where to be found, baboons were everywhere! They came up to the pool deck and walked around. One even started drinking the pool water.

There were girls having lunch outside and a baboon came and took their bread right off the table while they were sitting there! We saw moms carrying their babies on their backs. Jumping through the trees.

The workers would throw rocks at them to try to make them get away from the pool. They were cool to us, but to them they were just annoying. Kinda like raccoons on a camping trip in the U.S.

DK the Elephant Hunter

The next morning (Tuesday) was our last chance to see elephants close up. We set out for our third walking safari. DK was tracking the elephant through the forest. It was really cute. He would see leaves on the ground and know they had been eating there that morning. He would follow the foot prints until we found more leaves that had been eaten.

Finally. We found an elephant!

DK said that elephants are the 2nd fastest animal in the world! Whoa! I never would have imagined! Maybe that's why DK carried a rifle with him on every safari... Just in case the elephant wanted to race!

It was really cool to see it in its natural habitat. This was an old elephant, according to DK. It had only one tusk, had a large wound on it's front leg, and had a short tail. This elephant had been in a fight. Whoa! I would hate to be caught in the middle of that disagreement!

Hippo Heaven

After a successful safari we packed our things and were on our way. Not back to campus, but further north, near Wa, to a hippo sancutary.



We figured since it took 30 hours to get up there, then we might as well visit what we could, because the odds of us going back were very slim!

17 communities came together to create the sanctuary and protect the hippos in the Black Volta River.

That night the four of us slept outside in a tree stand at the sanctuary! We were roughing it! Especially when it started to rain! Haha.

The next morning we went on a canoe excursion to spot hippos in the river. We saw a few at a distance. We were all pretty much ready to go at that point, haha. So I'm sure it would have been cooler if we had more energy!

Anyway, it was a full trip with lots of excitement. This weekend I am actually staying in Accra. Taking a break from traveling! There are still things in Accra I'd like to do, and this means I'll get to sleep in my bed all weekend... although bus stations and tree stands really aren't that bad!

Have a good day!

Mel

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